Saturday, March 26, 2005

Birthday!

I had a good day, got a bunch of candy to share with my classes and
some stuff from the bakery (no doughnuts to be found) to share with
the staff and teachers. Got sung "Happy Birthday" a couple times, and
I was given a really nice cake from the school at the mid-day Friday
meeting.

As an added birthday bonus only one person from my usually small
afternoon class showed up. The class as a whole is normally kind of
young and lazy, except for one student, who had decided to go on leave
for the day (a decision which I think was linked to a social the night
before where he and several others got rather drunk). So the only
person was a guy I've spent some time hanging out and talking with and
who had his last day yesterday. I'd taught some students frisbee
during the lunch break and he'd meant to come, but unfortunately due
to some confusion about timing wasn't there. So we went out to a big
bus parking lot nearby, talked some, and I taught him to throw a
frisbee along with some relevant vocabulary. There wasn't a lot of
grammar structure, but it was fun.

During the lunch break another teacher convinced me to have a party,
do something for fun and get the cake eaten. So we planned to go to a
"pizzeria", a pretty decent place considering that it's China, better
than St. Louis sounded. She took care of most of the publicity, and
we ended up with about 25 people, a few teachers, a few staff people,
a lot of students (I seem to be fairly popular), and a significant
other or two. A few brought me some presents, which are mostly an
interesting assortment of snack foods, plus a souvenir bottle (it's
inside the bust of a girl made of coconuts husks, and that is meant
non-dirtily) of what is generally called rice wine although it's
really hard alcohol, usually pretty lethal, the stuff they got me is
45%. Earlier a couple students had asked me what I'd like and, after
thinking for a little while, I said I didn't want anything more to
carry around, but some unusual, but good, foods would be an
interesting way to, umm, get a taste of the culture without forcing me
to carry around too much cultural baggage.

The cake was pretty good, but it had a lot of frosting (fortunately
not too sweet) and was pretty spongy. For a reason. Apparently
Chinese people don't get cakes to eat, just to smash in the face of
the birthday boy or girl. I managed to get most of it cut and
distributed, but after everyone was eating and I'd returned to my
seat, a couple students over by the cake asked me to come and talk
with them. Completely unsuspecting, I walked over and suddenly had
hands smearing cake and frosting all over my face. It was funny, but
got funnier when I grabbed some more cake and wiped it all over them.
There were a few moments where it was nearly an all out food fight,
and one of the teachers quickly and quietly snuck out of the
restaurant before anyone got him.

Well, that's it for now. Thanks to everyone who's wished me a happy
birthday, and I will be writing to you all soon. It's been great to
hear from you all, please keep in touch.

Monday, March 21, 2005

Eating with the Chinese

And now for the much-awaited continuing adventures of Klipspringer 5...

It's so much easier to let go and say something silly when I'm drunk.
And I've got to be careful of Chinese hospitality, the constant
refilling of the glass, it's not a good thing for someone who drinks
whatever is put in front of him like water.

So I got to taiji right after my afternoon class today, maybe a little
after five, don't go home to change but bring my clothes with me so I
can change, but today is different. Turns out a tour group is passing
through, so I'm getting taken out to
dinner by my teacher and this farmer dude from between Moon Hill and
somewhere, along with a tour guide from Australia. So five or six
people from this group will be going over Wednesday morning for a
taiji lesson, and it's good, and traditional Chinese public relations
(as well as most other places) to cement a deal by taking someone out
to dinner and giving him, and all others in attendance, all the
alcohol they can take. We got some dumplings (jiaozi, which are like
what you normally see as steamed or fried dumplings in the US,
possibly the best I've had in China), some pumpkin cakes (what we
universally call squash, they universally call pumpkin, thanks to some
colonial legacy, ditto for Sri Lanka, which is thoroughly mixed half
and half with very glutinous rice and then fried, yummy), and a goat
meat hot pot (also very good, different, a little stronger flavor than
mutton, those tin cans get metabolized well), along with some pickled
vegetables and a little dipping bowl of spices. And 10 bottles of
beer. And I'm not talking those wussy-ass little 12 oz. bottles of
beer you get in the US, these are a solid pint and then some. Of
course the beer's only like 3% or so, but still, it adds up.
Especially when the two Chinese know how to nurse a glass of beer,
which means, after the approximately one bottle of beer that went into
the hot pot, the Aussie tour guide and I probably each netted about
3.5 bottles, which, while not enough to make me dangerously drunk, is
more than I'm used to, not even really drinking beer very much any
more, the stuff here's not good enough to drink alone, and it's too
expensive on West Street.

The farmer dude "Farmer Tang" is pretty cool though, I hope I get a
chance to go out and visit him some time while I'm here. I also got
some good advice from the tour guide about places worth visiting. But
the farmer, he's an interesting guy. Very vertically challenged, even
by Chinese standards, heck, I was probably bigger than him in 5th
grade. But he's very friendly, personable, enthusiastic, and
apparently he's got a 45 minute story about how he got married, which
he told us the beginning of, but didn't finish, although it involves a
Norwegian tourist giving him a trip to Guilin about 14 years ago.

In other adventures, on Saturday I got the chance to have what may be
the freshest fish I will ever eat. The school planned a bike trip on
Saturday, which happens fairly often. It was a good trip, through a
bunch of back roads and little villages, and then in the afternoon it
actually got sunny, I got a little color. But for lunch we stopped in
Liugong, which is a place on the river south of Yangshuo known for 3
different-colored pools. They do exist, and they're kind of cool,
sort of worn into the ground... but they're all shades of green,
nothing very exciting. It's not like one's yellow and one's blue and
one's red. One's dark green, one's light green, and one's lighter
green.

So anyway, we stopped in this village for lunch, found a house-like
restaurant that is apparently owned by an Australian who lives in
Yangshuo, not around at the time. A bunch of the students had gotten
some snacks, spicy pickled radish, peanuts, oranges, pomelo, which we
munched on until lunch was ready. Lunch was hot pot, water in a pot
with a lid over a heater, to which we could add oil, salt, MSG, and
the main ingredients. These included, first, a chicken, mostly likely
freshly killed and plucked and chopped into bits and some tofu. Oh
yeah, the chicken's blood was included as a condiment to add to the
hot pot. Fortunately no one wanted to. Then came possibly the most
disturbing main courses I have ever seen. The waitress brought up a
heaping plate of fresh, slimy, green, brown, and yellow little river
catfish, ranging from maybe 2-5 inches long, with a few river shrimp
thrown in for good measure. The fish were slit up the middle so
they'd cook more thoroughly and quickly, but (dramatic pause) they
weren't dead. Of course, we kind of assumed they were, being on a
plate, out of the water and sliced up, so imagine our surprise when
one leapt from the pile onto the table and lay there flapping and
gasping for oxygen. Several more fish attempted escape from the mound
of death, after which a larger platter was brought up to put the plate
in and the escapees were dumped in the pot. Even that was not enough
though as more flipped out, gooey yellow guts oozing from their extra
orifice, while the shrimp
feebly flexed their feelers and legs. Eventually the bloody plate on
which the chicken parts had lain was placed over the remaining fish to
keep them in, which mostly worked. I have never been so glad to see
animals dropped in boiling water, both to put them out of their misery
and me out of my grossed-outness. Seriously, if any country's culture
or cuisine is going to turn me veggie, it'll be China.

Of course, in some ways it's good to be reminded that the meat you eat
came from something living, but it can get taken to an extreme here,
walking past street restaurants with someone hacking the head off a
fish just taken out of the tank, or a boiled hare, the occasional dog,
an horrific grimace carved into the features...

And even with dogs or cats that are kept as pets it's strange, the
concepts that lie behind raising a pet just aren't here (nor in Sri
Lanka). They're things that were, for the most part, introduced by
the colonizers a hundred-some-odd years ago, without the moral system
that makes pet-raising feasible. When I started taking taiji there
were three dogs that lived at the training place, one mommy, named
Dan-dan, and her two kids, of whom one was named Lucky and the other,
well, I never quite made it out. Anyway, the one who wasn't named
Lucky disappeared during Spring Festival, whether to a restaurant or
another home, I know not. But the remaining dogs get no training, or
anything really, some food scraps, maybe some rice... Dan-dan will
usually let me pet her, if she's not moving to begin with, but Lucky
seems quite scared of being touched, occasionally he'll smell my hand,
but that's about it. Yet now there's a new problem because, while the
dogs aren't really trained, they aren't really allowed out of the
training center very much either. And Lucky's a horny young male dog,
and the only female around is his mom, which results in some
surprisingly disturbing attempts at intercourse. Fortunately Dan-dan
seems annoyedly uninterested, but still, seeing a dog sniffing and
licking it's mom all over, I mean, I played Oedipus for Jeezum's sake,
and I want them to
stop. Although admittedly, I was raised with a fair dose of New
England puritanism. Or Middle America prudishness or something.

Anyway, bedtime, more stories later.

Saturday, March 12, 2005

A little, well, a lot, about my contract and some problems with this job

Before I get to the main subject of this post, a couple things to write about.

If you're interested, the BBC and WBUR, independently, seem to be
doing a lot of stories on China lately. Right now I'm listening to a
BBC story about Wal-Mart in China. It's interesting. The Connection,
on WBUR, has also had a series of shows about various aspects of
China.

In other news, I tried an interesting concoction for breakfast. I
don't really keep too much prepared food around, because I'll eat it,
but I've found that having some cooked rice available is nice in the
morning, can make an acceptable rice porridge by mixing it with with
some hot, freshly mixed, soy milk. Unfortunately, while it's not
terrible, it's kind of bland, and I haven't yet engaged the services
of a student to help me track down spices. But I did get a couple
packets of various spice mixes from the guy at the market. There's
(now there's a story on Shanghai) one I have that's for a cooking
style from Western China/Central Asia. It's got some coriander, I
think, a flavor which goes well with the pudding, and something that's
called Sichuan peppercorn, which doesn't have all that strong flavor,
except it makes your tongue get tingly and go a little numb. I also
put in a little sugar and some bee pollen, which Paul (another
student) got at Taihu Lake in Suzhou and left behind. It was
surprisingly good, interesting, not gross. I will say that the
porridge works better when the rice is freshly cooked, it absorbs more
water. More work to do to make some really good recipes though.

Now the main part of the post. I've been doing some talking over
e-mail with various people about issues that have come up with getting
the ISLE assistant position and various things about the way the
school works, which I'll try to compile together because I think y'all
might be interested.

Unfortunately I won't be able to complete my contract because it's a
six-month contract, ending July 17th, and there will be orientation
and some pre-program work to do in the US starting in June. When I
decided to take the job here I knew that conflict would be a
possibility, so I worked a penalty-free two-month notice clause into
my contract, which, besides being useful in this case, is advisable in
a Chinese teaching contract, so the teacher has a way out if the
situation is really bad, which does happen.

It's also worth noting that while I will, insofar as reasonable, treat
the contract as a legally binding document, it is not. I don't know
all the details of Chinese contract law, but if it's going to be a
legal document there needs to be a Chinese translation for the
bureaucracy (and then you've got to make sure that there is a clause
saying that the English translation is equally valid), and probably a
bunch of other stuff. And generally, if it's a real contract it's
worthwhile to get yourself a bilingual lawyer. So this isn't that,
it's a four-page Word document in more or less passable English (I
understand what is meant even if it isn't written quite correctly)
which begins by stating that it is a friendly agreement between the
two parties, nothing about being legally binding.

Also, in the next week three teachers are leaving, one taught his last
day on Friday and two others will be leaving next Friday. It's
unusual for so many people to leave so close together, but staff
turnover seems to be part of the way a business like this runs,
perhaps especially for Omeida. Most places will set a minimum time of
6 months, or one semester, some of the more stable or well-paying
places will ask for 8 months or a year, others in more remote places
will ask for 4 months. So even if everyone who taught here agreed to
work for 6 months, which is the minimum for the bonus, and work were
spread out evenly, no couples teaching together or anything like that,
with nine teachers there'd still be someone leaving about every 6
weeks.

But Omeida is fairly rare in that it is located in a place that is
very attractive to native English speakers, which makes recruitment
much easier but retention more difficult, as a fair number of teachers
become such not because it is part of their plan, but instead because
it makes it easier and cheaper to spend time here. As a result, some
people are only willing to work for a month or two. Then there's the
occasional teacher who will not put in any effort or fall asleep while
smoking in bed and accidentally start a fire or sleep with (a)
student(s) or otherwise cause problems and eventually quit or get
fired. This doesn't seem common, but happens. On top of this,
because of the ease of finding native English speakers, the salary is
pretty low, so there's less incentive for people who aren't happy to
stick with it. It all adds up to a pretty high rate of turnover,
usually around 3 per month. It's just having all three leave at once
that's rare.

Let's see, just before I got here, or I guess it was during my first
week, one guy quit just before he got fired (he was the one who set
his bed on fire, and whose room I moved into). He was replaced almost
immediately by an Australian woman. A couple weeks later, just before
the break, two people, a couple, finished up their time here, and were
replaced by a retired Scottish geography teacher and a retired Dutch
doctor, who was volunteering for a month and was recently replaced by
a woman from Canada. And now the changes I mentioned before. The guy
done now is from Australia and will head to Shenzhen with his
girlfriend (Chinese) and be replaced by a bit of a scheduling change
and a Chinese teacher who has been working at another school that is
connected to Omeida. I'm not sure who Ben and Laurie, who are done at
the end of next week, will be replaced by. There was a girl who
graduated from Stanford a couple years ago who had been saving up to
work and travel, but when she actually got to China and realized how
cheaply she could get by, she decided not to bother with working.
There's also an Australian woman who, as far as I know, will be taking
over, but no one's seen her for a while. I don't know.

In any case, this usually doesn't seem to cause too much of a problem.
There's a sort of continual recruitment drive, and the administrative
staff seem accustomed to it. As for the students, I don't think it
hurts too much, for a bad reason. One of the downsides to this school
is that, while the Chinese staff are great and it attracts good
students and mostly good people to teach, it doesn't seem to do too
much to seek out trained or experienced teachers, nor does it provide
much curriculum support. Because of this, I don't think the quality
of teaching drops all that much when new teachers change. There is an
adjustment period, more so for untrained teachers, but it seems that
the most important thing for the students here is the opportunity to
get practice and gain confidence in speaking English. So a fair
amount of teacher turnover might actually be a good thing, give
students more exposure to different accents, different approaches,
etc. And then there is the fact that a lot of the students are only
here for a couple, few weeks. In the short-term confidence, comfort
level, and extension of vocabulary are probably the most important
things, which they will get no matter what, so revolving door for
teachers isn't a huge problem for them.

I think the biggest negative impact is on the students who are here
for a while, a few or several months. For real improvement students
need continual, practical, but structured practice with English
grammar (especially in China, Mandarin is lacking in a lot of things
that seem indispensible to most speakers of Western languages, like
plurals and verb conjugation), which they don't usually get too much
of here. A continuous teacher might provide the stability needed to
do the review necessary, but much more important to this would be a
consistant, well-structured curriculum, clearly explained and overseen
by someone qualified to do so.

The lack of structure, besides not being great for students can be
frustrating and cause problems for teachers as well. Basically, you
get assigned to a couple of classes that you pretty much stick with
for your whole time here, unless you request a change, and you're told
what book to work from, and what chapters were taught last. It's not
too bad, but there are a few things worth elaborating on.

First, I was assigned to teach Business English to the Higher and
Lower Elementary classes, and BE is, um, less than choice. It's
usually boring, I'm not interested in it, most of the students aren't
interested in it, and the ones who are aren't interested in it in its
own right, but because they want to do business in English. However,
I'm sticking with it because a) I don't want to hurt the students by
switching to something else and leaving it to the next new teacher,
who would then
probably do the same thing (it was what was happening when I got here)
and b) I don't know all that much about business, which means,
perversely, that I don't feel too guilty for not straying all that far
from the book, putting in as much effort as I
would feel a need to when teaching something else.

Second, the way students are placed is based on the curriculum in the
New Interchange series of books (a pretty good way to go), but I've
got to teach a book from a different series that's specialized for BE.
This book is a problem for several reasons, the simplest of which is
that it's above the level of the New Interchange book they're using
concurrently and by which they're tested. Furthermore, this book is
focused on specialized vocabulary, phrases, and grammar that might be
common in business situations, but isn't always all that useful for
everyday life. Also because of the BE focus, there aren't all that
many different or interesting ways in which to practice the grammar,
which is basically the way I was taught to teach, don't teach grammar
per se any more than necessary, but structure your lessons to practice
certain grammar points that are appropriate. A final minor problem
with the book is that, as it's published by Cambridge, it uses British
English spellings and turns of phrase which can be a pain to explain
or just have to read or listen to. Besides which, outside Hong Kong
and the occasional student who will go to England or Australia for
study, American English is generally much more important to Chinese
business people than British.

Third is the occasional problem with level testing. It's done not by
the native English-speaking teaching staff, but by the Chinese
principal, whose English is okay, but by no means fantastic. This
results in some student misplacement, which can be bad for their
self-esteem if they're placed too high and maybe even have to be
bumped down or make them bored or frustrated and be bad for the rest
of the class if they're placed too low. Worst though (and what has
happened in my Higher Elementary class) is when some students who are
here for the long term (2 months or more) are away on leave and some
new students, often short-term (usually 2 weeks-1month), who are at a
noticeably lower level are introduced. So now I've got a class where
half the people catch on pretty quickly and half don't have a clue.
And it's not like the old students are ready to move up a level, it's
just that the new students don't know as much and have no way to catch
up. I'm not sure what to do about that, other than just keep going,
balance it as best I can, and wait for the new students to finish
their time here. It does look like we'll move one of the students
down, but, well, we'll see about the others.

Fourth is the problem caused by the highly fluctual student
population. Some students come for several months and stay here the
entire time, some come for several months, but take a few breaks,
especially over the Spring Festival Holiday, and some students come
for a week or two or maybe a month. All of which causes problems
because you want to make sure everyone learns as much as possible. To
do this best you need to continually review old material, which I
could do well if it were a continuous, cumulative course, but when
you're getting new students every week or two with who-knows-what
previous knowledge, especially of BE, it's kind of difficult to
review, I'd have to reteach the whole lesson basically. But I can't
stick with a two or three week rotation of useful vocab and grammar
either, picking and choosing from the book, because that wouldn't give
the long-term students much room for growth. As it is, I've chosen
about ten chapters (every fifth chapter is a review chapter) for each
level to work through and basically do one chapter a week, without
much review at all.

Fifth is the fact that there's not a lot of communication among
teachers here, even those who are teaching the same level (there are
six levels, each of which is taught daily by three different teachers
in three separate class periods). This means that you can
occasionally discover that something you'd planned to do has already
been done recently, or that what you're teaching is something they're
entirely unfamiliar with, or that the words you're eliciting from them
are the same ones they're using in every other class (which isn't a
terrible thing).

Sixth, most minor and last for now, is that, since I'm teaching the
same groups of students every day, I can't really recycle lesson plans
the way I could if I were teaching several classes at the same level
that only met once or twice a week. It's nothing too major or
difficult, but it would be nice if I didn't have to come up with a
brand-new lesson plan every day.

So that's the negative, some of it petty, some of it from justified
frustration. Overall though, I'm having a good time, staying upbeat
and enjoying myself. I like my students and getting to know them, and
I'm learning plenty. But it would be nice if this school would take
the steps to make it really great, it's got so many other things going
for it. Raise the teacher salary so it's more attractive to trained
teachers and put more effort into recruiting them and get a director
of studies, put together a more effective way to teach the students,
maybe reorganize classes so that some are for short-term students,
others are for long-term students. Create a better product.
Location, the social events, the opportunity to meet new people,
foreign and Chinese, are great for students, but the academics could
be better.

Okay, that's it, other things to do today.

Friday, March 11, 2005

It's getting nice again and I've got a cold

Nothing serious, just the standard runny nose and/or congestion, but
it's as annoying as always. It has taught me that a lot of the
Kleenex they use here is scented though. It's kind of weird, and I
don't think it helps my nose.

It is good that the weather finally getting fairly nice though. I
don't usually need a t-shirt under my taiji clothes any more and can
comfortably walk around without a jacket.

But although it's warmer, it's still pretty foggy most days. A few
days ago the whiteness was so thick that we couldn't even see the
outline, couldn't even see the shadow, of the big hill that's right
across from the school, just beyond the buildings that line the
opposite side of the street.

And then yesterday it wasn't quite as foggy, and in the middle of
class suddenly there was a hot air balloon dropping past that same
hill, behind the buildings. It actually went all the way down out of
sight before it started rising again, eventually disappearing around
some other hills. I'm sure it's great scenery to see from the air,
but at the same time it seems like awfully dangerous scenery to fly
around, especially in a hot air balloon. Not really any lateral
control, just up or down, and these hills rise too fast to avoid
easily.

Anything else? Not too much, although we've got three teachers
finishing in the next week. Brad, from Australia, officially his
contract ends Tuesday, but it looks like he's done teaching today, and
will probably leave for Shenzhen with his girlfriend on Wednesday,
which he's happy about. Ben and Laurie actually extended their
contract slightly, and will be leaving at 4pm next Friday, heading to
Krabi, Thailand, and they are counting the days, ready for warmer
weather, beaches, and some friends they have there. I think there're
teachers lined up for the week after next, although I'm a little out
of the loop on that.

Oh, and next week I'm going to get to start learning taiji sword. So
far I've learned the basic 24-movement progression of the Yang style
and the basic 18-movement progression of the Chen style (which
eventually goes up to 74, I think) and been practicing those. It's
going well, my legs are in excellent shape and it usually feels good,
although I've still got to figure out how to do the waist-twist thing
that is part of throwing a good taiji punch.

Okay, that's it. For now.

Tuesday, March 08, 2005

Photo Album from Colin:More photos!


Colin's album
Between Xing Ping and YangDi









1 of 96 photos

Ofoto, A Kodak Company

Hello. These are pictures from my two hiking trips along the Li River, one way back at the beginning with Shannon, and one during the break, with people from school. I created a new album, and in doing so accidentally erased all the titles I'd written for the first set of photos. I figure since you might've already seen them, and since there's not all that much to write about, I wouldn't write too many titles/captions for them. I've written some more about the more recent pictures, but again, with a lot of scenery it's there to look at more than to read about.


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Photo Album from Colin:New and updated Yangshuo album


Colin's album
Yangshuo









1 of 74 photos

Ofoto, A Kodak Company

Hi all,

Here's an invitation to the Yangshuo album, which has pictures from work and around town. You've probably seen some of it before, but I've added a bunch more photos. I'll probably continue adding pictures (with titles) to it fairly regularly while I'm here, there's a lot more to show y'all, so don't lose track of it.


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